Exploring Bears Ears: A Desert Adventure

The Bears Ears from Kane Gulch

As I embarked on backpacking trips to the desert southwest several years ago, I felt a pull toward Bears Ears National Monument [i], regardless of its recent political tug of war. Its allure lay in two features: the rugged high desert canyons and mesas, and the remarkable concentration of Ancient Puebloan ruins and petroglyphs [ii].

In early May, I immersed myself in this landscape for 10 days. Initially, my plan involved hiking two multi day loops: one through Dark Canyon and the Dark Canyon Plateau, and the other through Fable Valley and Beef Basin, connecting segments of the Hayduke Trail [iii]. The weather had other plans. A late-week deluge of rain and snow at higher elevations transformed the access roads into a quagmire. Rather than risking a hefty $1,500 tow charge (been there, done that!), I adapted and opted for several day trips—both on and off trail—exploring the Monticello BLM District, Grand Gulch, Natural Bridges Monument, and Indian Creek.

The result? The best of both worlds: remote hiking during the day and cozy nights in the Silver Hilton, sipping hot chocolate under the desert stars.

In short, I found exactly what I was seeking — adventure, history, and unexpected twists.

Grand Gulch

Grand Gulch, nestled into Cedar Mesa in the southwest of Bears Ears, is renowned for its Ancestral Puebloan cliff ruins and captivating rock art. The winding canyons, sheltered by cliffs, once provided refuge for ancient inhabitants and ruins perch precariously on ledges and under overhangs.

During my loop hike—from Kane down into Grand Gulch and an exit via Todie Canyon—I marveled at the ruins and rock formations. But the true surprise? Giant cottonwood trees, some with diameters exceeding 5 feet. These ancient specimens, possibly 1,200 years old, witnessed the departure of the Ancient Puebloans around 1,300 AD.

Natural Bridges National Monument

Declared a National Monument in 1908, Natural Bridges pays homage to the ancestral Puebloans who once called this place home. It contains three bridges that were carved by the power of water: Kachina, Owachomo, and Sipapu. I dropped into the canyon at Sipapu and looped an exit at Kachina Bridge. The highlight of the hike was looking up and seeing Horse Collar Ruins which stands as one of the best-preserved ancestral Puebloan sites in the region.

Butler Wash and Indian Creek

Indian Creek hosts some of the most captivating rock art panels in the desert southwest. Here is found Newspaper Rock which contains over 650 petroglyphs that date back over 2,000 years. Elsewhere in the corridor, armed with GPS coordinates I climbed to five other rock art panels. My favorite glyphs are what appears to be a kangaroo standing above the water and another that looks like a cricket, or is that a cricket man? Makes you wonder…..

Flora and Fauna

The desert is not a desert.

Endnotes

[i] Bears Ears National Monument spans 1.36 million acres of red rock canyons, juniper mesas, and awe-inspiring buttes in southeastern Utah. The Monument is co-managed by the Bureau of Land Management (BLM), the Manti La Sal National Forest, and the five Tribes of the Bears Ears Commission: Hopi, Navajo, Ute Mountain Ute, Zuni, and Ute Indian Tribe of the Uintah Ouray.  It is a living museum of Native American cultural sites, including ancient ruins, petroglyphs, and artifacts.

 [ii] The term “Anasazi” refers to the Ancestral Pueblo people who inhabited the present-day Four Corners region of the United States, including places like Mesa Verde, Chaco Canyon, Canyon De Chelly, and Aztec. Interestingly, the term itself is Navajo in origin, and it means “ancient enemy.” However, the Pueblo peoples of New Mexico find this term disrespectful when referring to their ancestors. As a result, the more appropriate and respectful terms to use are “Ancestral Pueblo” or “Ancestral Puebloan.” These terms honor the rich history and culture of these ancient peoples without perpetuating negative connotations1. So, in summary, “Anasazi” is best replaced by “Ancestral Pueblo” or “Ancestral Puebloan” when discussing this fascinating civilization.

 [iii] The Hayduke Trail is an 800-mile hiking route that winds through rugged and breathtaking landscapes  starting in Arches National Park in Utah, dipping into Arizona to pass through the Grand Canyon and ending in Zion National Park.