Wind River - August 2020

This was my third summer in Wyoming’s Wind River Wilderness. The previous year I had taken a break of my circumnavigation of the range with a hike in Montana’s Bob Marshall Wilderness. This year I intended to approach the Winds from the south with a hike starting at Big Sandy Trailhead, an hour’s drive from Pinedale, Wyoming. The plan was a loop going off-piste up East River traversing through Hailey Pass to Graves Lake and returning via Washakie Pass to Big Sandy. The trip promised stable weather, magnificent views and excellent fishing, including a shot at the Wind’s storied Golden trout.

The Route

Seven days, forty one miles, two passes over the continental divide, 7,100 feet of elevation gain. Perhaps a little over engineered for 65 YO legs.

The trip did not disappoint. It started with some trepidation as trailhead parking was packed. Not to worry. I presumed most hikers and climbers were headed over Texas Pass to the overly popular Lone Lake and Circ of the Towers, a climbing meca from the 70’s when Becky, Chouinard and friends pioneered the first big wall routes in the range. From previous experience I knew that this wilderness simply swallows people. As I suspected, I saw very few hikers on my route and even went 3 of 7 days not seeing a soul.

I hiked north to Dads Lake and then went off trail up East River.  Here I spent a couple of days fishing a series of lakes beneath Raid Peak, arguably one of the most picturesque settings I have encountered in the mountains.  The lakes and outlets were chock full of willing brookies, and I brought a couple of small Golden trout to hand.

From East Lake I traversed to Pyramid Lake and regained the trail to Mays Lake and then up and over the continental divide through Hailey Pass with its stunning view of Mount Hooker and Baptiste.   A blustery evening at Graves Lake yielded a magnificent rainbow and some fat cutthroat trout. 

Spearfish Lake was the next day’s goal.  I easily found the way trail leading to the final crux climb to the lake.  As I was hiking alone and promised my wife I would play safe, I backed off and left the lake for another day.  No sooner than I started my exit, I stumbled, literally, into a huge and very active bear wallow.  Needless to say, I made a very noisy beeline for the trail.

Loch Leven Lake was my next camp and here I learned a very valuable lesson for fishing the Winds:  cutthroat trout love hoppers, especially in heavy wind and chop.  When you think about it makes sense:  80% of the alpine trout diet is adiabatic, i.e., blown in.  These trout are looking up and a mountain trout that misses a meal during the 3-4 months of summer are dead trout.  While I saw no sign of hoppers, my bobbing foam floaters brought some very plump fish to hand.

The next day found me hiking back to the trailhead via Washakie Pass and along many lakes just begging to be fished.  Alas, after 7 days in the Winds it was time to start heading for home. Another day…….

This was an outstanding trip that begs to be repeated.  It did however suffer from a mistake I find myself making frequently as I sense my personal winter approaching:  it was over engineered with far too many miles and not enough time spent on the water or simply in contemplation.  Not that the hiking and mountain vistas are not stunning.  They are.  Its just that to truly enjoy the trip I should probably slow down and enjoy the journey at a slower pace.  Probably not going to happen.

A highlight video of the trip is on my YouTube channel here.