Steens Mountain Adventure

When I embarked on my journey to the Portland region back in 2000, little did I know that I would eventually stumble upon a hidden gem in the remote southeastern desert of Oregon. It all began when I picked up a copy of the "Flyfisher’s Guide to Oregon," eager to acquaint myself with my new surroundings. What truly captured my imagination were the southeastern desert rivers, including the Owyhee, Malheur, and Blitzen, and the remote ‘towns’ of Burns, Frenchglen, Fields, and Denio. This region not only boasts a rich indigenous and pioneer history but also entices with its sheer remoteness and breathtaking high desert landscapes.

One landscape that beckoned me back time and again was Steens Mountain, nestled in the far southeastern corner of Oregon. This colossal fault-block mountain rises out of the desert, stretching an impressive 50 miles from north to south. On its west side lies the Alvord Desert, starting at an elevation of about 4,200 feet and ascending to a summit elevation of 9,738 feet. While I had previously visited the Alvord to fish at Mann Lake for Lahontan Cutthroat trout, this fall led me back to the Steens to hike and fish along the Donner und Blitzen River, in pursuit of the native Great Basin Redband Trout.

The Donner und Blitzen River, which drains the west side of the Steens, earned its distinctive name in 1864. An Army commander, who found himself crossing the river during a tumultuous thunderstorm, christened it "Donner und Blitzen," the German words for thunder and lightning. Today, this remarkable river boasts National Wild and Scenic status, and it's no wonder that it's being considered for wilderness designation.

My trip was nothing short of perfect. As I hiked along the meandering canyon, I found willing Redbands and flushed California Quail in the riverside thickets. As night descended, I marveled at the brilliance of the Milky Way, far from the light pollution of the city. And the grand finale of my adventure involved a short hike to the summit of Steens Mountain, where I stood in awe, gazing out at the vast expanse of the middle of nowhere.

Steens Mountain and the Donner und Blitzen River are highly recommended adventures. If time allows, I will return.